ハイクレア城とは、有名なイギリスドラマ「ダウントン・アビー」のロケ地ですが、ドラマのストーリーにもあったように第一次世界大戦中は負傷した士官たちの病院であり、第二次世界大戦中は子供たちの避難所でもありました。今回はハイクレア城とその歴史のご紹介です
行き方：パディントン駅～ハイクレア城
ハイクレア城（Highclere Castle）
所要時間は、パディントン駅から車でM3経由だと1時間26分、 M4経由だと1時間33分~43分、電車はGWRパディントン駅からNewbury駅まで最短で44分で駅からバス（+58分）+徒歩（+40～56分）、もしくは電車+タクシー（+11分）、入場券込みのシャトルバスだとロンドン大英博物館から最長2時間15分（他にもマーブルアーチのハードロックホテル、ハイド―パーク近くのホリデイ イン ケンジントンフォーラムからのピックアップ有）。
交通費：パディントン駅～Newbury駅～ハイクレア城
- 車：140円-220円
- 電車+バス+徒歩：電車￡25.40（3,577円）+バス往復￡7.00（985円）+徒歩無料
- 電車+タクシー：電車￡25.40（3,577円）+タクシー片道（2,100円～2,600円）
- シャトルバス：往復バス乗車券+城内入場券+エジプトエキシビジョン￡99.00（13,942円）
2018年8月20時点1￡＝140.83
私は当日の朝ハイクレア城行きを決定したので事前の下調べをせず電車とタクシーを利用し、パディントン駅からオフピーク日帰り往復切符の乗車券￡25.40（3,577円）、Newbury駅からハイクレア城までのタクシー代が片道￡16.15×2＝￡32.3（4,548円）で、交通費合計は8,125円でした。
今回改めて交通費を調べていたところ、タクシー代は通常￡14.91～18.46らしいので私の支払った金額は中値だったと考えれば高からず安からずでしょうか。駅に着いて1台駐車中の車の前で談話している3人のおじ様達にタクシー乗り場を聞いたら、その車がタクシーだったので乗車したという行き当たりばったりでしたが。
普段の旅行時は、駅から10～20分内であれば道を調べて徒歩で行くのですが、ハイクレア城は最寄りのバス停から40～56分歩くようなので、事前に調査していたとしてもやはりタクシーを利用しただろうなと思います。ハイクレア城は城内もかなり歩き回るし、広大なお庭も散歩すると考えると到着前と観光後に往復2時間を歩くのはなかなか体力勝負かも知れません。
当日券売り場
1.入場券売り場 
2.料金表 
3.入場ゲート
- 当日入場券の売り場ですが、これは帰りに撮影したので窓口が閉じています。
- 料金表。団体ツアーだと割引料金だったりするのでしょうか？
- 入場券を購入したらそのまま入場ゲートの門を潜ります
Gateからの別れ道 
ハイクレア城までの一本道 
入場券
観光のために建築された施設であれば広いなくらいにしか思わないのですが、個人所有の居住地だと思うと門から家までの距離、そして広大な敷地、どこを見ても自分の生活とかけ離れ過ぎていて圧巻。今度タクシー運転手から聞いたちょっとした噂話も書きますが、あくまで1人のタクシー運転手が語ったに過ぎないので本気にするかしないかは個人責任ですが、冗談や嘘だったとしても広大な土地や大きな建物に関しては、建てて終わりではなくそこから数百年継続維持する為にはメンテナンスというものが発生するので、1夜城ならぬ1夜でお金持になった人には到底維持管理仕切れないのではないかなと感じました。
ハイクレア城の歴史と建築
16世紀半ばにハイクレアは聖職者から世俗に渡り、1679年ロバートソーヤ卿に購入されその一族、親族に引き継がれていき、1838年第三代カーナボン伯爵が、ウェストミンスター宮殿の再建で最も有名な建築家チャールズ・バリーに改築を依頼しました。1837年にヴィクトリア女王が即位されて間もなくであり、建築では板ガラスと錬鉄製造の新技術が構造的設計を促進していたとあります。ウェストミンスター宮殿が火災により大半が焼失したのが1834年、チャールズ・バリーが再建のコンペを勝ち取ったのが1836年、ハイクレア城の改築の設計話しが1838年となると、大人気建築家チャールズの色濃い２つのゴシック様式ベースの建築物が平行で設計されていたとすると感慨深い。ちなみにチャールズはハイクレア城に3つの異なるデザインを準備しており、最後のデザインが1842年でこれはハイクレア城の玄関に「MDCCCXLⅡ」の日付が刻まれています。
更に詳しい歴史はハイクレア城の売店及びOnline siteで販売されているSouvenir Guide Book￡9.50をご参考に！
引用元：HIGHCLERE CASTLE The Home of the 8th Earl & Countess of Carnarvon
さて、ここから少しハイクレア城の歴史についてですが、このハイクレア地域、このお城は歴史も深く、石器時代から青銅器時代に入る頃から人の居住痕跡があります。最初の古い記録は紀元前749年、アグロサクソン人の建てたイングランドの7王国の1つ、ウェセックスのカーサ―王がウィンチェスターの司教にこの地所を与え約800年所有し続けたとあります。
歴代の司教たちは、現在の城跡地とその周辺の庭園に大きな中世のホール、礼拝堂などを建設、中世イギリスで最も優れた人物の1人で有名な、神学者であり政治家であり教育家であるウィカムのウィリアム高位聖職者は1379年、オックスフォードにニューカレッジを開設する際、ハイクレアで伐採されたオークを使用したと言われています。
では、ほぼ同時期にチャールズが設計したハイクレア城とウェストミンスター宮殿を比較してみましょう！
ハイクレア城 
ウェストミンスター宮殿
どうでしょう？やはりウェストミンスター宮殿の方が資金投入されてる感じでしょうかね。
ハイクレア城 
ウェストミンスター宮殿
ハイクレア城 
ウェストミンスター宮殿
正面玄関には「Only One will I Serve（1つだけ提供します）」という家族の座右の銘が刻まれています。この下に「MDCCCXLⅡ」の設計図が刻まれているのですが、列に並びながらズームで撮影したため上手く撮れなかったので、是非現地でご確認を！
室内は撮影禁止なので画像の紹介は出来ないのですが、玄関を入ってすぐの玄関ホールは何本ものアーチ状の石柱がありホイップでケーキを装飾しているかのような滑らかな線が入ってとても美しく、次の部屋へと真っすぐ伸びる赤い絨毯もさることながら、床（大理石？）はスタイリッシュな柄。絨毯に沿って立ち入り禁止のロープが掛かっているので周辺に飾られた彫刻をゆっくり鑑賞する事は出来ないですが、とても美しいエントランスです。
正面 
玄関 
玄関を前に左手
絨毯の先には1860年完成の吹き抜けサロンに続きます。城内の他室と比べればこじんまりとしたアットホームな空間は吹き抜け2階廊下手すりの壁面に年代ごとの紋章が組み込まれており、1つ1つ見るだけでもその歴史を思うと感慨深い。この空間では美術館もしくは品の良いアトリエのような柔らかい空気を感じます。
続くダイニングルームには、横並びに11人？掛けのダイニングテーブルがあるのですが、それよりも威圧感のあるヴァン・ディックによるチャールズ1世の乗馬の肖像が目に入る。その大きさもさることながら有名美術館でしか鑑賞できないような美しい作品で、周りの先祖代々の肖像画は存在感を無くす。ちなみにこのチャールズ1世の乗馬の肖像画は似たようなバージョンがいくつか存在しており、1つは王族コレクション、1つはワーウィック城、もう1つはモンキュートハウスにある。
ここでは絵画に目を取られがちですが、実際はマホガニー材を使用したテーブルや椅子、そして当時私は知らなかったのですが、美しい柱時計があるとの事なので、ハイクレア城に観光する際は家具の隅々まで見て見てください。
この続きはまた。
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